Gyeongju travel info

Gyeongju was the capital of the Silla kingdom for nearly a thousand years, from 57 BC. What surprises first-time visitors is that the tombs aren't behind museum glass; they sit in the middle of town. The grassy mounds of Daereungwon are as tall as apartment blocks, and just across the wall, on Hwangnidan-gil, the smell of roasting coffee and baking red-bean buns drifts out from under hanok eaves. Cheomseongdae, Daereungwon, Hwangnidan-gil and the old Gyochon village all fit inside one walkable loop.

After dark, the crowd moves to Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond, where the restored pavilions light up and reflect upside down in the water. By day, most people take a bus up toward Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto, then come back for a ssambap spread and a bag of Hwangnam bread. If you have time, the east-coast fishing village of Gampo has seafood restaurants right on the water.

From Seoul it's a little over two hours by KTX. One catch: the KTX stop is in Geoncheon-eup, well outside the centre, so where you sleep decides how your first hour goes. Once you're in, the old town is flat and easy on foot.

From Seoul (KTX)

From Busan, Daegu and nearby cities (BUS)

From the airport (AIR)