Gochang travel info

Gochang is a county at the south-west tip of North Jeolla where mountains and sea share one map. In the town stands Gochangeupseong (Moyang Fortress), a stone wall raised in 1453; the 1.7 km walk along the top carries the smell of pine the whole way. West of town, a UNESCO-listed field of dolmens lies in the grass, and on the slopes of Mt. Seonun sits Seonunsa temple, famous for its camellias.

Food starts with Pungcheon eel and bokbunja (Korean black raspberry). The eel comes off a charcoal grill and goes into a bokbunja sauce with ginger slivers; the berry also turns up as wine and jelly. In spring the Green Barley Festival at Hagwon Farm in Gongeum fills the barley-rice restaurants nearby. In town, a Chinese restaurant serves jjajang and stir-fried jjamppong in one bowl, the so-called Gochang-style bibim jjamjjamyeon.

There is no train station. From Seoul, take the direct bus from Central City in a little over three hours, or ride the KTX to Jeongeup and change to an intercity bus. Sights are spread across the county, so a car makes the day far easier.

From Seoul (BUS)

From Jeongeup Station (KTX)

From Incheon Airport (ICN)