Busan travel info

Busan is a city where the mountains drop straight into the sea. Ride the metro and you come out of a tunnel to harbour cranes and stacked containers, with pastel houses climbing the hillsides like stairs. About 3.3 million people live here, making it the country's second city. It opened in 1876 as Korea's first international port, and during the Korean War it served as the temporary capital while refugees poured in. The cold wheat noodles (milmyeon) and pork-bone soup (dwaeji-gukbap) people made from whatever was cheap back then are now the city's signature dishes.

Haeundae is a sandy beach backed by a wall of high-rises; Gwangalli is the beach where Gwangandaegyo Bridge lights up every night. Both sit on Metro Line 2. Head toward Nampo-dong and Jagalchi Market, International Market and Kkangtong Market run together, and the alleys smell of fish-cake broth and frying seed hotteok. Yeongdo, Gamcheon Culture Village and Huinnyeoul Culture Village stack hills and sea on top of each other.

From Seoul it is about two and a half hours by KTX, and Busan Station opens straight onto Metro Line 1. One catch: Haeundae and Nampo-dong are roughly 40 minutes apart by metro, so where you sleep shapes your whole day. Don't try to see everything at once; take it one neighbourhood at a time.

From Gimhae Airport (PUS)

From Seoul (KTX)

From other regions by bus or train (BUS)